As you may know, my creations are often for my daughter but this time, thanks to Jo and Scary @ Shaffer Sisters and Ajaire @ Call Ajaire, I felt authorized spending some time in drafting and sewing something For Mom Only!

Let me say that I’m honoured of opening this inspiring series with a brand new name “Sew-a-bration of Womanhood”… thank you so much for this tempting occasion: as moms we always spend most of our time for our families but, guess what?

We deserve some Mom time!

and, if you love to sew, you’ll agree that Mom Time = sewing something for Mom!

I love raglan sleeves, I’ve created so many shirts and dresses with them, so the choice was already done:

a comfy knit raglan dress

with a shoulder detail that highlight end enhance that part of the body: because a mom need practical garments but they can be fun and flirty too!

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern

I’m sharing with you my pattern, so you can recreate it, if you like!

You can find it here on my pattern shop on Craftsy (affiliate link), for FREE. 

If you’re not in Craftsy, follow my step-by-step instructions about how to create an account for FREE in minutes… you won’t regret it!

Just a couple of world about sewing knits: I find everyday people asking me suggestions and tips for sewing knits, so I’ve written a post about it, collecting my 30 best tips… if you feel like you need a boost to convince you sewing knits with confidence, read it now!

My Mom’s Raglan Dress pattern fits a body with these measurements:

  • Bust: 100 cm
  • Waist: 80 cm
  • Hips 100 cm

It’s a knit dress, so it will fit/hug you also if your measurements are not exactly those above…soooo comfy!

Can I add a couple of words about the pattern? I’ve recently discovered one of the greatest woman in patternmaking with Illustrator… it’s the awesome Lauren Dahl and I’d like to thank her for all what she’s teaching me with her PatternWorkshop (affiliate link) video course… it’s the best thing I’ve bought lately!

What you need:

  • 1 m jersey
  • scraps of jersey for the underbreast strip
  • scraps of fusible knit interfacing for the underbreast strip
  • scraps of woven lightweight fabric for the sleeves
  • thread
  • Mom’s Raglan Dress FREE pattern (affiliate link)1 cm seam allowances included!

Print and tape together the pattern, following the pattern layout below:

Serger Pepper - Mom's Raglan Dress size L PATTERN LAYOUT

Before you start cutting, check your jersey’s raw edges: chances are that they’re rolling on themselves… a simple trick is to use some starch spray (the one you use for ironing men’s button up shirts) and give a nice steam pressflat edges in seconds!

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - flat edges with spray starch

Cut all the pattern pieces, marking notches:

  • center neckline front and back;
  • single notch on front sleeve;
  • single notch on front bodice;
  • shoulder point A on sleeves;
  • waistline height.

Cut a strip of binding for the neckline (55 cm * 4 or 21 1/4″ * 1 1/2″) in the sense of stretch.
Apply interfacing to the black underbreast strip (this will give more body and support!)

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - materials
Sew (or serge) bodice to underbreast to skirt piece to create front piece.

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - create front piece
Assembling sleeves (with a french seam):

Sew sleeves front to back, wrong sides facing, using a 1/8″ seam allowance: start from neckline and stop to the shoulder point notch A. Backstitch on both ends.
Press your shoulder seams flat to one side, not open, to “set” your stitches (they have to blend with the fabric); then turn the fabric wrong side out and press the seam line again.
Lay the sewn sleeves front and back pieces flat with wrong side out (Right Sides Together) and stitch the second seam 1/4” from first seam, enclosing the raw edges of the first seam.

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - french seam sleeves

Press seam allowances toward wrong side along the remaining central seam of each sleeve, from shoulder point notch A to sleeve hem: this will help you achieve the perfect rolled hem, either if you sew it using a small and full zig-zag with your sewing machine or you do a rolled hem with your serger like I did.

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - press seam allowances

Need a help with serger stitches settings? Check this cheat sheet 😉

I’d suggest you disengage your blade now and pull off the stitch finger in order to sew sew a rolled hem all along those pressed hems, in one time: straighten the fabric when you reach point A, so you can sew one only seam from sleeve hem to sleeve hem, passing through A.

Trim exceeding fabric on the wrong side.

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - rolled hem

Here’s how it looks after a nice steam press… isn’t it lovely?

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern  - rolled hem
Suggestion: serging a narrow hem, the thread showing is the upper looper‘s one: choose it wisely!
Attach raglan sleeves to the front bodice, right sides together, matching notches.
Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - attach the sleeves

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - sleeves to the front
Attach raglan sleeves to the back of the dress, in the same way you did on the front.
Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - sleeves to the back

Hem (with a rolled hem) the sleeves:

Press toward the wrong side of the fabric 1 cm seam allowance:
Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - press sleeve's hem

Sew a rolled hem on the right side and trim off exceeding fabric as you did before.

Fold the corner toward the wrong side before hemming for best results.

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - rolled hem on sleeves
Secure serger’s chain inside the seam, on wrong side, using a wool needle:

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - secure thread tails
Trim the rest of the tail:
Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - trim thread tails
Put front dress piece above back dress piece, right sides facing, match side seams (notches), raglan seams and align hemlines on both skirt and sleeves hems.

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern -  sew side seams
If you’re unsure about the fit, baste side seams and try on your dress to decide if you need to trim off to shape it more along the waist or hip girths. When you’re ok, sew side seams.

Neckline

Fold your binding in half and stitch together the short sides, right sides together, closing the ribbing in circle. Fold the binding in half again, heightwise and wrong sides together, matching long raw edges.

Mark the other half with a pin, opposite to the seam you’ve just made.Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - neckline
Match that seam to the center back notch (that I forgot to mark, so you see a pin, instead!) and the pin to the center front notch (idem).

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - pin the neckline
Go on pinning all around, stretching the ribbing to fit (don’t stretch the neckline!).
Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - more pins on the necklineSerge (or sew with a triple straight stitch) all around, press toward the bodice (use a tailor’s ham for best results) and topstitch to secure the seam allowance to the back (so it won’t flip) with a triple straight stitch.

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - finished!

Hem your Mom’s Raglan Dress using
a) a double needle
b) a blind hem
c) adding ruffles matching to raglan sleeves woven fabric
d) nothing at all, like I did (since knit doesn’t fray)… in the end it’s Mom time, am I allowed of being lazy, or not?

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern - I love this dress!

I hope you enjoyed my Mom’s Raglan Dress, I’m sure that now I have a new dress that I’ll wear a lot this spring/summer

Serger Pepper - Sew-a-Bration of Womanwood - Moms Raglan Dress FREE pattern  - I love this dress!

I hope you enjoyed  this Mom’s Daglan Dress… I can’t wait to see all the other participant’s creations!

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