FREE Pleat today! The Mary Skirt Tutorial

  • Serger Pepper - Mary Skirt - FREE pattern and pic-heavy tutoriall

Some times ago I asked to all my lovely newsletter subscribers to suggest me what my next FREE pattern had to be, and I chose to be inspired from Mary’s suggestion: a box pleated skirt but, just to create something original, I decided to add a yoga waistband (because for kids I don’t like those clothes that fits too little time), pockets (as you already know) and a contrasting pleat on one side (and you can choose which side!) to add a fashion touch and to be frugal and use little pieces of fabric (maybe leftover from other projects?).

PS: It’s a size 5, but thanks to the yoga waistband can be worn from 3 to 6 years, depending on your girl’s measurements!

Drumroll, please….

I’m really proud to present you

The Mary Skirt (FREE pattern and tutorial)

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern

Fabrics choices:

Main and contrasting pieces:

– better use roughly the same weight for main and contrasting fabric;

– possibly choose a medium weight woven fabric with a bit of stretch (denim is a perfect choice)

Yoga waistband:

– choose a knit with some lycra inside for the waistband, put the stretch direction horizontally

Download the pattern from the link inside this morning’s newsletter

(…what? You are not subscribed to SergerPepper’s newsletter? You can do it now, it’s easy and it’s FREE!)

Got it? Right!

Print without scaling (on page 1 there’s a check square)
Tape pages together (1-2-3 and 4-5), then cut around every pattern piece.

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Remember to add seam allowances (I add 1 cm) all around, except for the double folded hem (4 cm) while cutting fabric!

Cut:

  • “Front Center + Right”  piece“Front Left” piece placing on single fabric layer, on right side;
  •  “Contrasting Pleat” piece once, on contrasting fabric (really?!?), on right side;
  • “Back” piece once, on fold;
  • “Pocket” piece 4 times, mirrored (two on right side, two on wrong side of the fabric)

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

  • “Yoga waistband” piece: measure roughly 25-27 cm wide x 20 cm height (considering it has to be wide as 80% your children waist measurement and height two times the finished desired waistband height + 2 times seam allowances) from your knit scraps

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Mark with chalk all the markings (pocket notches)…

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

 … and pleats!

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Add the contrasting pleat by sewing it right sides facing between the other two front pieces:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Press seam allowances toward main fabric and finish the seam the way you like best (serge, zig-zag), so they won’t fray!

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistbandCreate the creases for the boxed pleats, matching the middle pleat mark with the outer lines of each pleat, then press everything with steam and steam and steam! Allow to cool without moving to fix each crease.

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Create the inverted box pleats and pin in place (eventually you can also baste in place by hand, like I did on The Eriqua Dress).

Look at that pleat (from top)!

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

 The outside look like this, now:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

And that is the inside:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Fix with a wide zig-zag (a triple zig-zag would be also better) the top of each pleat, just to be sure you’ll catch all the layers when adding the waistband.

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Add pockets, the way you like: remember? the tutorials we published latley?

Yes, you guessed!

Our Mary Skirt has one of each kind!!!

Create now the yoga waistband: it’s easy, like adding a cuff!

Fold in half with right side inside and sew (or better serge) along the only seam:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Turn inside out and fold in half one more time, in the opposite direction. Now mark with pin each quarter of your circumference and match each pin with the same points on the skirt upper edge (put the waistband seam on center back and use side seam on skirt as two of 4 quarter points on skirt!)

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Connect the waistband to the skirt with a stretch stitch (like a triple straight stitch), stretching the waistband between quarters while you sew to keep things smooth then finish the seam allowance (zig-zag or, better, serge).

Hem (there’s an easy to follow, while detailed, tutorial for a double folded hem), adding if you like decorative stitches instead of a straight stitch!

Measure the hem length (4cm).

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

 Fold up half of the length, pin and press:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Fold up the second time, pin, press and stitch, trying to keep your seam line the nearest the upper fold you can!

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleatedOne more general pressing session and… voilà,

your box pleated, yoga waistband Mary Skirt is done!

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

 A different version I’ve sewn, is made with denim (blue and violet pinstriped, like on the pencil-case) and the dolman top knit. I’ve also changed the placement of the contrasting pleat, simply putting upside-down all front pattern pieces on the fabric!)

 

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

 Detail: inside pocket! (Yes, it’s my ubiquitous old duvet cover… it was a double size LOL!)

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Now, let’s see if LilPotato liked it…. What do you think?

It all started as a quiet session of shoots…

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Then an unwary mom pronounced the forbidden words… it’s a Yoga waistband! And then the model started acting weirdly:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

 I guess she loves her new skirts, don’t you?

I hope you enjoyed this free pattern (and if you’re not a subscriber, remember that it’s fast, easy and FREE to become it now!). Please share pics of your version of my Mary Skirt on Serger Pepper’s Flicker shared board and do not hesitate to ask for help if you notice something wrong or unclear!
…and… I wait for your suggestion for what you’d like me to develop next 🙂

I’d really like to share this post in my favorite Linky Parties, if only I had some more spare time 🙂

 

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About the Author:

Hi there! I love sewing, creating my own patterns and refashioning pre-loved clothes... If you love the same things, why not be friends? See you on Pinterest http://Pinterest.com/MammaNene

35 Comments

  1. Beatriz Azuara December 16, 2013 at 17:58 - Reply

    I love the surprise, I have to make one for after the holidays, is great.

    Kisses/Bea

    • Mamma Nene December 17, 2013 at 12:57 - Reply

      Thanks Beatriz! Can’t wait to see your version – I hope you’ll share it on Serger Pepper’s Flickr Shared Board!

  2. Pam @Threading My Way December 17, 2013 at 01:03 - Reply

    Love the contrasting pleats!!!

    • Mamma Nene December 17, 2013 at 12:58 - Reply

      Thanks Pam <3
      I think it adds some je-ne-sais-quoi 😉

  3. Jenya December 17, 2013 at 11:24 - Reply

    Gorgeous! I never knew Yoga was a magic word 😉

    • Mamma Nene December 17, 2013 at 12:59 - Reply

      Lol – You never stop learning – My daugher has a thing for gymnastic related topics/words!!!!

  4. Mary December 18, 2013 at 08:32 - Reply

    Good morning Irene. Thanks for the lovely pattern and its name. I’m ready to sew it.

  5. Jennifer December 19, 2013 at 03:47 - Reply

    Well done! Is there an approximate size for this pattern?

    • Mamma Nene December 19, 2013 at 08:13 - Reply

      Oops… you’re true, Jennifer! It’s a size 4-5 years!
      Thanks for pointing it out 🙂

      • Jennifer December 31, 2013 at 07:05 - Reply

        Thanks so much!

  6. […] Would you like to sign up for SergerPepper’s weekly mail? There are two exclusive patterns: The Mary Skirt and The Eriqua […]

  7. […] My n°1 for this year’s sewing posts is my latest creation, The Mary Skirt […]

  8. linda December 31, 2013 at 04:09 - Reply

    I can not find the link for the box pleat skirt. pls help me. Thank you

  9. Tom Witman January 8, 2014 at 16:24 - Reply

    I cannot find the link for the box pleated skirt either. I’ve subscribed to your newsletter but where’s the pattern???

    • Mamma Nene January 8, 2014 at 20:04 - Reply

      Hi Tom, thanks for being here!
      I’m so happy to hear that you can’t wait to sew your Mary Skirt! I’m sending you the pattern in a minute, while usually our Newsletter (with the Mary skirt and The Eriqua Dress patterns) is delivered on Monday! Go check your email, then, and please share some pics of your Mary Skirt on SergerPepper flickr shared board here: http://www.flickr.com/groups/sergerpepper/
      … and please ask if you need more help 🙂

  10. Jo January 30, 2014 at 22:46 - Reply

    Hi. I am new. I would love to have a go at this beautiful skirt. Would you please share the link for me to print the pattern.

  11. Karen January 31, 2014 at 08:42 - Reply

    Hi, I’ve subscribed to the list, is there anyway to get this pattern still please? My little girl saw me looking and asked for me to make it!

  12. […] Would you like to have more awesome content from Serger Pepper? Stay tuned by signing up to our Monday’s newsletter, where you’ll find two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary Skirt […]

  13. […] Don’t loose our next posts, follow us! And if you do it with our Monday’s Newsletter you can have two (and counting) Exclusive FREE patterns: The Erika Dress and The Mary Skirt… […]

  14. […] Do you have a PDF pattern assembling trick to share with us? Comment section is here for you! Would you like to have more awesome content from Serger Pepper? Stay tuned by signing up to our Monday’s newsletter and you’ll receive two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary Skirt […]

  15. […] newsletter and you’ll receive two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary Skirt (PS: a third one is coming […]

  16. […] Stay tuned by signing up to our Monday’s newsletter and you’ll receive two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary Skirt […]

  17. […] Would you like to have more awesome content from SergerPepper? Stay tuned by signing up to our Monday’s newsletter and you’ll receive two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary Skirt […]

  18. Rosemary May 5, 2014 at 13:44 - Reply

    I am unable to find the skirt pattern link as well. I am traveling and on my lap top. I was able to download the dress no problem. I am an email subscriber as well.

    • Mamma Nene May 5, 2014 at 19:51 - Reply

      Hi Rosemary! Just open today’s newsletter and scroll down to the bottom. If you click on each image (Mary Skirt, Joan the Wad Hat and Eriqua Dress), you open the PDF’s link, ready to be saved on your PC. Let me know if you still have problems.
      Thanks for asking 🙂

  19. Judith February 7, 2015 at 20:20 - Reply

    Hi, love the skirt, but I can’t figure out how to get the free download? I signed up for newsletter, but didn’t receive a link. Can you share how I can get this cute skirt?

    • Mamma Nene February 9, 2015 at 13:20 - Reply

      Hi Judith!
      The link is included in the “Thank You” email, the second one you receive after subscribing. If you can’t find it, did you check your spam folder? It usually needs a few minutes after subscribing….
      Please let me know if you can’t receive it (and consider that you’re going to have the link tomorrow too, it will be on the footer of the weekly newsletter).
      Hugs from Italy,
      Irene

  20. Fran February 16, 2015 at 14:20 - Reply

    Hi,

    Unfortunately I’m having the same problem! I may have deleted the email in error, and as I’ve only just signed up I may have missed the link in the last newsletter. Will it be available again?

    Thanks

    Fran

    PS I love the patterns 🙂

  21. ivone December 3, 2015 at 17:07 - Reply

    Obrigada pelo molde e tutorial. beijos do Brazil

  22. Cris March 9, 2016 at 04:46 - Reply

    I made this skirt out of an old denim jumper with a red calico pleat. My granddaughter loved it and wears it constantly!
    I needed to change the measurement for the yoga waistband. Most size 5 waists are about 55 cm, so that is the width I cut the swimsuit fabric I used for the waistband. Otherwise, the pattern was very easy to follow. Loved doing the pockets with the French seam . . . very nice finish! Thanks so much for this sweet pattern!

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