Some times ago I asked to all my lovely newsletter subscribers to suggest me what my next FREE pattern had to be, and I chose to be inspired from Mary’s suggestion: a box pleated skirt but, just to create something original, I decided to add a yoga waistband (because for kids I don’t like those clothes that fits too little time), pockets (as you already know) and a contrasting pleat on one side (and you can choose which side!) to add a fashion touch and to be frugal and use little pieces of fabric (maybe leftover from other projects?).

PS: It’s a size 5, but thanks to the yoga waistband can be worn from 3 to 6 years, depending on your girl’s measurements!

Drumroll, please….

I’m really proud to present you

The Mary Skirt (FREE pattern and tutorial)

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern

Fabrics choices:

Main and contrasting pieces:

– better use roughly the same weight for main and contrasting fabric;

– possibly choose a medium weight woven fabric with a bit of stretch (denim is a perfect choice)

Yoga waistband:

– choose a knit with some lycra inside for the waistband, put the stretch direction horizontally

Download the pattern from the link inside this morning’s newsletter

(…what? You are not subscribed to SergerPepper’s newsletter? You can do it now, it’s easy and it’s FREE!)

Got it? Right!

Print without scaling (on page 1 there’s a check square)
Tape pages together (1-2-3 and 4-5), then cut around every pattern piece.

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Remember to add seam allowances (I add 1 cm) all around, except for the double folded hem (4 cm) while cutting fabric!

Cut:

  • “Front Center + Right”  piece“Front Left” piece placing on single fabric layer, on right side;
  •  “Contrasting Pleat” piece once, on contrasting fabric (really?!?), on right side;
  • “Back” piece once, on fold;
  • “Pocket” piece 4 times, mirrored (two on right side, two on wrong side of the fabric)

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

  • “Yoga waistband” piece: measure roughly 25-27 cm wide x 20 cm height (considering it has to be wide as 80% your children waist measurement and height two times the finished desired waistband height + 2 times seam allowances) from your knit scraps

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Mark with chalk all the markings (pocket notches)…

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

 … and pleats!

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Add the contrasting pleat by sewing it right sides facing between the other two front pieces:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Press seam allowances toward main fabric and finish the seam the way you like best (serge, zig-zag), so they won’t fray!

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistbandCreate the creases for the boxed pleats, matching the middle pleat mark with the outer lines of each pleat, then press everything with steam and steam and steam! Allow to cool without moving to fix each crease.

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Create the inverted box pleats and pin in place (eventually you can also baste in place by hand, like I did on The Eriqua Dress).

Look at that pleat (from top)!

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

 The outside look like this, now:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

And that is the inside:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Fix with a wide zig-zag (a triple zig-zag would be also better) the top of each pleat, just to be sure you’ll catch all the layers when adding the waistband.

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Add pockets, the way you like: remember? the tutorials we published latley?

Yes, you guessed!

Our Mary Skirt has one of each kind!!!

Create now the yoga waistband: it’s easy, like adding a cuff!

Fold in half with right side inside and sew (or better serge) along the only seam:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Turn inside out and fold in half one more time, in the opposite direction. Now mark with pin each quarter of your circumference and match each pin with the same points on the skirt upper edge (put the waistband seam on center back and use side seam on skirt as two of 4 quarter points on skirt!)

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Connect the waistband to the skirt with a stretch stitch (like a triple straight stitch), stretching the waistband between quarters while you sew to keep things smooth then finish the seam allowance (zig-zag or, better, serge).

Hem (there’s an easy to follow, while detailed, tutorial for a double folded hem), adding if you like decorative stitches instead of a straight stitch!

Measure the hem length (4cm).

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

 Fold up half of the length, pin and press:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Fold up the second time, pin, press and stitch, trying to keep your seam line the nearest the upper fold you can!

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleatedOne more general pressing session and… voilà,

your box pleated, yoga waistband Mary Skirt is done!

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

 A different version I’ve sewn, is made with denim (blue and violet pinstriped, like on the pencil-case) and the dolman top knit. I’ve also changed the placement of the contrasting pleat, simply putting upside-down all front pattern pieces on the fabric!)

 

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

 Detail: inside pocket! (Yes, it’s my ubiquitous old duvet cover… it was a double size LOL!)

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Now, let’s see if LilPotato liked it…. What do you think?

It all started as a quiet session of shoots…

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

Then an unwary mom pronounced the forbidden words… it’s a Yoga waistband! And then the model started acting weirdly:

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - box pleated

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - yoga waistband

Serger Pepper - The Mary Skirt - FREE pattern - contrasting pleat

 I guess she loves her new skirts, don’t you?

I hope you enjoyed this free pattern (and if you’re not a subscriber, remember that it’s fast, easy and FREE to become it now!). Please share pics of your version of my Mary Skirt on Serger Pepper’s Flicker shared board and do not hesitate to ask for help if you notice something wrong or unclear!
…and… I wait for your suggestion for what you’d like me to develop next 🙂

I’d really like to share this post in my favorite Linky Parties, if only I had some more spare time 🙂