Last monday we talked about how to add an In-Seam Pocket to any pattern (the easy/Lazy way), now it’s time to get serious!

Serger Pepper - French Seam Pocket - add In-Seam pocket to any pattern

I’m going to show you my favorite method for adding exactly the same pocket to any garment (that has a seam line, possibly, where you can add the pocket!) but in a slightly more professional way (with tidier results):

a french seam pocket

with french side seams too!

…but please don’t be scared: it involves just some more stitching and pressing, but you’ll be amazed from the Pro-result, believe me!

Let’s start downloading the pocket pattern (resizing it if your model’s hand is bigger/smaller of a 5 years old girl)

Now you can cut the pocket pieces exactly like you did last week, two mirrored pieces for each pocket, adding slightly bigger seam allowances all around (I use a 1,5 cm s.a.); always consider that the straightgrain runs parallel to the straight edge of the pocket, vertically.

What you have to do now is to align pocket and skirt/pant/dress seam allowances matching Wrong Sides (and not Right Sides) together, than sew using half of your seam allowance between the notches that marks your pocket placement.

Serger Pepper - French Seam Pocket - add In-Seam pocket to any pattern

This time you don’t have to finish this edge because we will be including it in the seam

Press well the seam you’ve just done, at first opened and then enfolding the pocket around the main fabric edge

Serger Pepper - French Seam Pocket - add In-Seam pocket to any pattern

Sew a row of stitches just inside the pocket piece, parallel to the first seam.

Press opened the pocket on both front and back main pieces, then match them with Wrong sides facing!

Use a smaller seam allowance (half of the 1.5 cm you’ve added while cutting), in one seam close side seams and pocket edges

Turn inside out, eventually you can trim exceeding seam allowances, on corners, just to help laying flatter. Press well Sew the second seam of your french seam, enclosing the seam allowances

Serger Pepper - French Seam Pocket - add In-Seam pocket to any pattern

Press the pocket toward centre front and admire: you’ve just sewn a prefectly finished

french seam pocket

without any fraying edge!!!

Serger Pepper - French Seam Pocket - add In-Seam pocket to any pattern

This tutorial is been provided you to help you next week putting together my new FREE pattern, exclusively mailed to all my email subscribers (this is the 2nd one, you can find the other – Eriqua Dress – clicking on the image below).

Next monday, December, 16th, will be Release Day, so please don’t loose your time and leave your email: you’ll receive your pattern just in time for some last minute Xmas sewing!

SergerPepper Eriqua Dress FREE sewing pattern

It’s easy and fast… plus it’s a FREEBIE!

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