Lay your pattern pieces on boiled wool and outline with chalk (1 cm seam allowances are already included, where needed!)
Remember: you need 2 mirrored ear flaps and 2 mirrored top pointy portions of the hat.
Cut fabric and set aside; in one of the earflap (you can decide now which one, left or right) cut the hole as for pattern instructions.
No seam allowances included here, the hole draw is for the stitching line!
If you’re using a lightweight wool (not suggested… the pointy hat won’t stand up!), start with a smaller hole, or your scarf won’t stay put. I’d suggest you making a sample hole with some scraps of your fabrics to see how it goes!
Cut the same pieces on your lining fabric (choose a natural fiber to avoid static electricity on hairs – I chose knit because of its stretch, more comfy on head).
Do not cut holes in lining’s earflap now here!
Sew the hole!
Match two earflaps (one from the main fabric, one for lining – IMPORTANT: choose them mirrored!) right sides together and pin, then sew around the hole, using the smallest seam allowances you feel comfy with (2mm?), but try not to sew out of the main fabric! TIP: use the smallest stitch length you can (I use a 1,5) and go really slowly, carefully guiding your fabric under the sewing foot. When you reach the pointy end you can use your hand wheel too, to be even more precise!
Cut now the lining along the center of the hole, then trim seam allowances the smaller, the better!
… now trim!
Turn inside out by pulling your lining inside the hole: I know, there are a lot of wrinkles and fabric pulling here and there: nothing that some more trimming and pressing can’t smooth!
When you feel like you’re satisfied with your result, pin around the hole (to be sure your lining won’t pop out during next step), checking both sides:
Topstitch all around the hole.
TIP: I used a contrasting thread (white) because I liked the result, but you can choose a matching threadto better hide a topstitching not perfectly straight!
Congrats with yourself. you did the trickiest part!
Now, it’s all ordinary administration 🙂
Assembling the hat pattern pieces
Let’s sew the top hats to the earflaps, on both linings and main fabrics (total 4 times!)
Simply match top hat bottom edge to top earflap edge, then sew, using our 1 cm seam allowance.
TIP: use a ballpoint needle to sew knit on knit, and an elastic stitch, if available on your sewing machine (I use a triple straight stitch): a hat isn’t going to stretch a lot but better not risk!
Match now your right sides to your left sides on main fabric, all along the center front seam. Use a lot of pins (or, if you prefer, baste by hand) to be sure your horizontal seams are perfectly meeting on center front seam: if you make this wrong, it’s going to show on your finished Joan the Wad Hat and you’ll complain this later, so take your seam ripper, if it’s not ok, and unpick and re-stitch until satisfied!
When it’s ok, press seams opened
With wool, use a press cloth between your iron and the fabric to protect it and prevent a shine!
Repeat on lining (here Mamma says you’re allowed to be lazy – nobody will notice if it’s a little bit wonkier, inside!!)
Press seams opened here too!
Let’s close now the center back seams but, before you press seams opened,I’d suggest you to try your hat on to be sure about the fit (without turning it inside out) and eventually take in a little along back seam. (Remember to take in the same amount on lining back seam!) When it fits, press seams opened; I’d suggest you to use a tailor’s ham for the lower (bigger) part:
and a sausage roll for the tighter (upper) portion. On main fabric, trim seam allowances the more the better on hat’s pointy upper end.
On the lining, I’d suggest you to sew an horizontal line to keep fabric from raveling, like this:
… and then cut the point out!
Sorry for the white balance, gone fishing!
And here you can see both the main and the lining pieces with seam allowances pressed open:
On the edges!
You’re now ready to put together your hat: insert the lining in the main fabric Wrong Sides Together and pin all around the raw edge to keep in place
Sew all round with a zig-zag: this will help you while binding!
Creating binding strips:
I chose to use a rib knit, refashioned from a kid’s white tank 🙂
I chose knit because I’d like some stretch here (binding rounded corners is easier with knits – I wouldn’t suggest you to use a bias strip here!)
You need to cut a strip 220 cm (87″) long (on the stretchiest direction) and 6 cm (2 1/2″) high for all sizes!
You can join shorter strips by stitching them one to each other along the 6 cm (2 1/2″) side, right sides together, then press seam allowances open.
Press your binding in half lengthwise, keeping outside the right side of the fabric.
Pin binding’s raw edge on hat’s raw edge on lining side, starting a little before the back center seam; pin all around.
When you reach the back center seam again, trim the exceeding binding and fold the short raw edge on itself, then put it against the hat (leaving the other binding end raw edge on top!) and secure with one more pin!
Sew all around the hat edges on binding.
Tip: set a short stitch length and go really slow, to be sure you catch all the layers.
When you reach the center back seam, carefully sew turning your hand wheel: it’s stiff here, you don’t want to break anything!
Trim any exceeding fabric to have a regular (and smaller) seam allowance – ignore that you’re cutting your zig-zag row of stitches,B!
Now wrap your binding around the edge, pinning it on the right side of the hat: keep it regular in width and pin a lot, especially on the rounded corners!
Topstitch on right side on the edge of the binding (on lining you’ll see a line of stitching: if you’d like to see it less, better choose a color that can blend)
Put a flower on top of your Joan the Wad Hat!
You’re done with your hat, but you can add a really simple t-shirt flower by cutting some refashioned white t-shirt jersey, and adding a button in the middle:
I’ve followed this easy tutorial I’ve found online, except for the glue part – I handstitched it!
Just to add some more fun, we’ve added a gold button in the middle and handstitched the t-shirt flower on top of our Joan the Wad Hat!
Let’s go out and have some fun, now:
That’s all for today!
I hope you enjoyed my third free pattern, shared with all my lovely subscribers!
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