Invisible Zipper Application with Standard Zipper Foot


Let’s go on talking about zippers (here you can find how to shorten a zipper)! 

Now I’m showing you my favorite method for an

invisible zipper application

using a standard zipper foot

I like to do this way because I never end with wonky seams like with other methods that involves one only row of stitching and sewing the rest of the seam after and not before applying the zipper.

I start sewing the rest of the seam below the zip, until reaching the end-of-zipper mark, and backstitch.


Now, machine baste the seam where the zipper will be (use no tension and the longer stitch you have; leave bobbin thread longer to distinguish it from the other later!)


Press seam opened and, if you’re not lining your dress/skirt (the dress on the example will be lined), finish them the way you like.


Put the zip (pull tab facing down) along the basted seam, paying attention to the upper stitch line (in the dress will be the neckline, in a skirt the waistband) to avoid the zipper to exceed this line.


Pin only on seam allowances the zipper tape, putting your pins on opposite directions on each side (see photos): they’ll be simpler to pull out as you sew.


Sew with a standard zipper foot (only on seam allowances), trying to get as close as possible to zipper teeth without catching them with your needle!
When you reach the end of one side, on bottom, backstitch, cut thread and turn the dress, to sew the other zipper tape to the other seam allowance.


Now unstitch the machine basting by pulling the bobbin thread (the longer tail, remember?).


Unzip the zipper and press along teeth trying to uncurl the tape in order to help you sewing a little closer to the teeth (low heat, or you’ll end with melted zip teeth –> not good, they say!)


Sew the last seam all around, the closer the better. 


Close the zipper and give a good press to your dress/skirt/whatever; step away and admire: can you see the zipper? No? Good, because it’s an

invisible zipper!


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About the Author:

Hi there! I love sewing, creating my own patterns and refashioning pre-loved clothes... If you love the same things, why not be friends? See you on Pinterest


  1. Pam @Threading My Way October 14, 2013 at 11:18 - Reply

    I’ve pinned for future reference, Irene. I haven’t done one this way and your finished zipper looks perfect!!!

    • Mamma Nene October 14, 2013 at 18:58 - Reply

      Thank you Pam, I appreciate a lot!
      If you try, I would be more than happy to hear a feedback from you. I think is a simple and fast method, also if it involves a double row of stitching all around, and the result is pretty smooth!

  2. Diane @ Vintage Zest October 14, 2013 at 17:16 - Reply

    I love your tutorials! I actually bought an invisible zipper foot, which works perfectly, but I had to buy it online, wait forever, and pay extra money. I wish I would have seen this first!

    • Mamma Nene October 14, 2013 at 19:01 - Reply

      Thank you Diane! I try to find simpler solutions when I can, because I’m a frugal girl that don’t like to spend her time and money every time I’m able to!
      So sorry I’m late for your invisible zipper foot XD
      Hugs, dear xox

  3. […] pinafore, fully lined, with an invisible zipper on back (check here how to shorten a zipper and how to apply it with a standard zipper foot). The stunning detail are those inverted pleats, with embroidered bar tacks in contrasting thread […]

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