Let’s go on talking about zippers (here you can find how to shorten a zipper)!
Now I’m showing you my favorite method for an
invisible zipper application
using a standard zipper foot
I like to do this way because I never end with wonky seams like with other methods that involves one only row of stitching and sewing the rest of the seam after and not before applying the zipper.
I start sewing the rest of the seam below the zip, until reaching the end-of-zipper mark, and backstitch.
Now, machine baste the seam where the zipper will be (use no tension and the longer stitch you have; leave bobbin thread longer to distinguish it from the other later!)
Press seam opened and, if you’re not lining your dress/skirt (the dress on the example will be lined), finish them the way you like.
Put the zip (pull tab facing down) along the basted seam, paying attention to the upper stitch line (in the dress will be the neckline, in a skirt the waistband) to avoid the zipper to exceed this line.
Pin only on seam allowances the zipper tape, putting your pins on opposite directions on each side (see photos): they’ll be simpler to pull out as you sew.
Sew with a standard zipper foot (only on seam allowances), trying to get as close as possible to zipper teeth without catching them with your needle!
When you reach the end of one side, on bottom, backstitch, cut thread and turn the dress, to sew the other zipper tape to the other seam allowance.
Now unstitch the machine basting by pulling the bobbin thread (the longer tail, remember?).
Unzip the zipper and press along teeth trying to uncurl the tape in order to help you sewing a little closer to the teeth (low heat, or you’ll end with melted zip teeth –> not good, they say!)
Sew the last seam all around, the closer the better.
Close the zipper and give a good press to your dress/skirt/whatever; step away and admire: can you see the zipper? No? Good, because it’s an