Invisible-zipper-application-with-a-standard-zipper-feet

Let’s go on talking about zippers (here you can find how to shorten a zipper)! 

Now I’m showing you my favorite method for an

invisible zipper application

using a standard zipper foot

I like to do this way because I never end with wonky seams like with other methods that involves one only row of stitching and sewing the rest of the seam after and not before applying the zipper.

I start sewing the rest of the seam below the zip, until reaching the end-of-zipper mark, and backstitch.

Serger-Pepper-Invisible-Zipper-Application-Standard-Feet

Now, machine baste the seam where the zipper will be (use no tension and the longer stitch you have; leave bobbin thread longer to distinguish it from the other later!)

Serger-Pepper-Invisible-Zipper-Application-Standard-Feet

Press seam opened and, if you’re not lining your dress/skirt (the dress on the example will be lined), finish them the way you like.

Serger-Pepper-Invisible-Zipper-Application-Standard-Feet

Put the zip (pull tab facing down) along the basted seam, paying attention to the upper stitch line (in the dress will be the neckline, in a skirt the waistband) to avoid the zipper to exceed this line.

Serger-Pepper-Invisible-Zipper-Application-Standard-Feet

Pin only on seam allowances the zipper tape, putting your pins on opposite directions on each side (see photos): they’ll be simpler to pull out as you sew.

Serger-Pepper-Invisible-Zipper-Application-Standard-Feet

Sew with a standard zipper foot (only on seam allowances), trying to get as close as possible to zipper teeth without catching them with your needle!
When you reach the end of one side, on bottom, backstitch, cut thread and turn the dress, to sew the other zipper tape to the other seam allowance.

Serger-Pepper-Invisible-Zipper-Application-Standard-Feet

Now unstitch the machine basting by pulling the bobbin thread (the longer tail, remember?).

Serger-Pepper-Invisible-Zipper-Application-Standard-Feet

Unzip the zipper and press along teeth trying to uncurl the tape in order to help you sewing a little closer to the teeth (low heat, or you’ll end with melted zip teeth –> not good, they say!)

Serger-Pepper-Invisible-Zipper-Application-Standard-Feet

Sew the last seam all around, the closer the better. 

Serger-Pepper-Invisible-Zipper-Application-Standard-Feet

Close the zipper and give a good press to your dress/skirt/whatever; step away and admire: can you see the zipper? No? Good, because it’s an

invisible zipper!

Serger-Pepper-Invisible-Zipper-Application-Standard-Feet

Would you like to have some free patterns?
And maybe a 25% discount on your first purchase, only for you?

Subscribe now and you'll get them both, for FREE!