If you follow me, you know I’ve not been blogging, lately. This happened because I was putting together a HUGE project, that will be revealed in the next days (hint: I’m going to be published in a sewing e-zine I appreciate a lot).
As you may know, I tend to be a perfectionist and I really have an hard time focusing in more than one important project at a time, but I often overhwlm my self with a thousand things to do, forgetting I have only 24 hours a day, 7 days a week available, (as most of you, I believe!).
But this morning, I wake up with a goal in mind: publishing something for you!
Here’s a FREE pattern for the Cutie-Pie Cache Coeur, for you in girl sizes 2-16.
Ok, I cheated. It’s not a new one, I had already posted it at Deanna’s months ago, but it’s new to my blog!
Here it comes!
Like many other girls at her age, my daughter dreams to become a ballet dancer.
This is what inspired me creating for her a cache-coeur, a garment usually worn by dancers of any age, that can (more pratically) help in layering for fall and spring, for those days when a cardigan is too much but you appreciate the warm hug it gives to your shoulders, warming your heart, literally… and I think of it like if it was my arm hugging her shoulders… mom’s heart <3
I’m sure you’d wish to sew one you too, if only you had a free pattern… but, wait!
You can have it!
And it’s in girl sizes 2 to 16… suitable for petite women too (see size charts below)!
Just download it here!
Choose your size basing on the following size charts:
Use anything knit for this cache-coeur; you may try with a stretch woven, but I don’t guarantee it will warm your heart as much as a wool blend knit!
For the lining, I choose a XXL man T-shirt: I always buy them at Decathlon (it’s a huge sport shop) when they’re on sale because they are made of Organic Cotton, have no side seams (less leftovers) and are usually cheaper than the same kniy by the yard (plus, you can reuse hems and/or ribbings, if you like!).
For the right side strings, I used scraps from the slightly stretch cotoon I used for the center panels of the Everyday Tank Cowl Neck Hack I’ve created for the Blog Tour we’ve recently done, so it can be worn as a complete dress for the cold season (we
‘re planning to use wore it for the Christmas recital at school!).
As for all my newest patterns, I’ve included the awesome feature of printing only the size you need!
How-to sew your Cutie Pie Cache-coeur:
Print and tape (see my 7 Best Tips here, if it’s your first time with PDF sewing patterns, or you simply want to save some time and craps) the sheets together (print on Letter size or A4, depending on your needs).
Here’s how this pattern will look when it’s all taped together:
Cut out pattern pieces on paper and position them above the fabric, paying attention to put the more elastic direction horizontally, to make sure it fits properly.
Cut pieces on fabric following directions below.
Mark center back, and center of the sleeve’s cap with a tiny snip inside seam allowances, to help you construct your cache-coeur.
Other tools/notions you need:
- sewing machine
- serger (optional)
- a safety pin
- pressing cloth
3/8″ (1 cm) SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED EVERYWHERE
How many pieces to cut:
- cut 2 x main fabric (mirrored)
- cut 2 lining fabric (mirrored)
To save you some paper and ink, on the PDf you print, you have only ONE end of the strings: cut them longer (as noted on the pattern), on fabric, while keeping the given width (they’re rectangles).
- cut 2 x main fabric
- cut 2 x lining fabric
- cut 1 x main fabric, on fold
- cut 1 x lining fabric, on fold
- cut 2 x main fabric
Step one: sleeve’s hem
Let’s start from… the end!
Especially in smaller sizes, wrist are really tiny and hem them in round can be a nightmare to, if underarm seams are already sewn.
Hemming in flat, before everything else, won’t give you the same perfect result, but, sometimes, quick and dirty is better than yelling at your sewing machine… 😉
Turn the hem 1 cm to the wrong side of the fabric, press and topstitch, using a stretch stitch: I used a honeycomb that keeps seam allowances together, while topstitching (Width = 5 Length = 2).
I’ve finished the raw edge with a 3-thread serger stitch, before turning and topstitching, but it’s totally up to you, you can leave it raw, knits don’t ravel!
Step two: shoulders
Lay the back piece on the table, right side up; align along shoulder seams one of the front pieces, right sides together and stitch with a triple straight stitch (or your favorite stretch stitch).
Repeat on the other shoulder, then do the same on both lining shoulders.
Step three: add sleeves
Right sides together, pin the center of one sleeve’s cap to the shoulder seam; pin each end of the sleeve’s cap to the corresponding underarm corner on seam allowances.
Stitch the sleeve on, using a triple straight stitch (or your favorite stretch stitch) and going slow, aligning fabrics edges without pulling too much to avoid warping the fabric.
Step four: attach strings
Align one short edge of one of the strings you cut in main fabric, right sides together, to one of the front pieces.
Stitch together with a triple straight stitch (or your favorite stretch stitch). Press seam opened.
Repeat for the other string, then for both strings on lining fabric.
Step five: underarm and side seams
On main fabric, right sides together, align wrist edges, armpit seam and side seams.
On the lining, close side seams, right sides together.
Step six: lining the cache-coeur
Turn inside out the cache-coeur made in main fabric, and slip on it the lining, right sides together, matching raw edges.
Pin all around the neckline, the front opening, the strings and the bottom raw edge.
Note that you need to leave a portion of this seam opened: I choose to leave it on the bottom back edge and, to be sure I don’t need to go back and use the seam ripper on a triple straight stitch sewn on a knit (that it’s one of the worst thing you can hope to do… ask me why I know it!), I mark it putting two pins side by side on each end of the gap I want to leave.
I’ve read someone else (but who? I have no clue, I read so much!) uses a red-head pin, that tells her “Stop!”… whatever way you do, just leave this opening!
Leave the short ends of the strings opened too!
Backstitch on each end, or your seams could come undone while you turn the cache-coeur… outside-out!
Stitch all around the edges, leaving those 3 gaps, then trim seam allowances to reduce the bulk.
Step seven: turn it to the right side
Take a cute safety pin and fix it to one of the string’s opened ends.
Feed the safety pin inside the string and, helping you with your other hand, push it through the fabric tube until it reaches the back bottom gap.
Here’s how looks the whole garment right now… all wonky, but you’re nearly done!
Press the edges flat, using your pressing cloth to protect the wool knit from becoming shiny and make sure your lining isn’t peaking on the right side of the cache-coeur, rolling the fabric along the edges just a little toward the inside of the garment. Press the gaps closed too.
Pin all around to help your edges to stay in place until you topstitch them.
To topstitch all around, I have chosen (again) an honeycomb stitch on my sewing machine, to help the fabric maintain the stretch on the body and the strings (that are going to be pulled when you made a knot!), plus it adds some pizzaz to the whole thing!
Step nine: finish the lining armholes
To finish the lining armholes, you have several ways. I think the better one (fast and good-looking) is to sew the lining to the main fabric seam allowances, then serge over them.
Otherwise, you can turn and press the lining fabric toward the inside of the garment and slip-stitch it by hand to the seam allowances of the main fabric, or even add a strip of lightweight knit to finish the whole thing.
… anyway: better make sure the lining is sitting flat on the main fabric of the cache-coeur, to avoid a bagging lining or, even worst, a lining too tight.
To do this, simply pin it in place all around, flattening it with your hands, until you reach the armhole.
Pin the armhole to the seam allowances…
… and then stitch it and finish it as you prefer.
Ta-dah! You’re done!
Now you can put it above pink jeans and a white turtleneck shirt, just to add some fun to a pretty basic outfit, and go to climbing ropes
Or maybe have some more fun, and simply… play Rock’n Roll!
That’s all for today!