Couture Lace Skirt DIY (sizes NB to XL) in 10 easy steps!

  • Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY

Today I’m taking back home this tutorial for sewing a lined lace skirt in any size (from Newborn to Woman XL), as seen on Mabey She made it this summer!

As you can see on my Pinterest Board, I’ve been collecting some great inspiration pics for this garment with no age

Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it

Enters: my version, a knee-length gathered & lined skirt with Couture finishings: no raw edges (excluding the scalloped lace hem…), outside and inside!

If you need some tips on working with this material, please check my post about sewing lace!

Let’s see how you can create your own:

Materials:

  • guess… lace!
  • lining;
  • some knit for the waistband and, optionally, for the hem facing;
  • 1″ (2.5 cm) height flat elastic.

(see charts on step 2 for measurements by size)

1. First of all choose your size on charts below, basing on hips measurements.

You need to know your model’s waist measurement to cut your elastic waistband, also if an average waist girth is provided (maybe you want to make it as a gift and you don’t have access to your model’s waist…)

2. Cut pattern pieces following measurements on charts, considering that:

  • there’s no need to be  too precise, you can play with the numbers if your piece of fabric is slightly bigger or smaller;
  • you can attach together more different pieces of fabric, there’s no need to have one only piece of fabric with given measurements!
  • measurements given are bigger for the lace layer than the lining: I love a fuller overskirt and a less bulky lining…
  • if you have a scalloped lace like mine, cut it 1 cm (3/8″) shorter than the “fabric length” on charts;
  • measurements includes 3/8″ seam allowances!

Cut the elastic, either using measurements in charts below or measuring your model waist girth and adding 3/4″ (2 cm)

Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  - Imperial charts

Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  - Metric charts

Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  - cut your fabrics 2. Let’s start from… the end: hem your lining now that it’s everything flat!

To do that fold the bottom (if you’re using a directional print) long edge to the wrong side, press and repeat.

Topstitch to secure the hem.

To add some pizzaz, I made a contrasting hem facing, faux-piping style, using a strip of the same fabric used for the waistband, long as the lining longer side, 2″ height.

If you like how it looks, fold the strip in half, wrong sides together, aligning the long edges and press to crease.

Align the strip to the hem of the lining part, matching raw long edges.

Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  - hem the lining with facings Pin, then stitch using 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowances.

Press the facing toward the wrong side of the lining: I like a little bit of fabric peeking out, so I pressed it leaving it showing to the front just a smidge. Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  - lining with hem I’m not going to hem my lace layer, because of the scalloped hem; if you’re using a different kind of lace, you can hem it too (consider that often lace don’t frays… check if you can skip this step)!

3. Gather both layers on their top long side (opposite to the hem); they need to fit to the waistband length.

To help you putting everything together later, mark with a sharpie a dot at the mid-length on each long side of the waistband and on the top long edge of both lace and lining. Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  - sharpie dot halfway Don’t know how-to gather? Using your machine baste stitch (long stitch and no spool tension) without backstitching and leaving long thread tails, then pull bobbin thread.

Using a different color on spole/bobbin can help pulling the right one! Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  - gather using a different color thread in bobbin 4. Pin both layers (separately) to the waistband, paying attention to their right/wrong sides.

Lace to waistband: right sides together.Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  - lace to waistband RST Lining to waistband: lining wrong side together with waistband right side.

Help yourself evenly distributing gathers by matching your Sharpie halfway points!

Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  pin edge and halfway

Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  match halfway sharpie dots Pro tip: when you’ve gathered enough each layer, fix thread tails to a pin on each end, making an “8” around it (head-toe-head-toe) so it won’t move while you pin and sew it! Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  "8" around the pin 5. Attach layers to the waistband using an elastic stitch (on a sewing machine a triple straight stitch would be my go-to choice!) or directly serging (like I did).

Press seam allowances toward the waistband, on both sides.

Pro Tip: try not to stretch too much your waistband while sewing to avoid a curly seam! Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  press both s.a. toward the waistband 6. Fold the rectangle (=your skirt) in half, Wrong Sides Together (the opposite you do 99% of time); carefully pin where waistband seams are crossing, to ensure accurate (not-homemade-looking) results. Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  match waistband seams 7. Sew (or serge) using the smallest seam allowance you can.

Press seam flat to one side (to “set” stitches in fabric).

Turn the skirt wrong side out.

Right sides together, press the seam again.

Stitch the second seam enclosing the raw (or sergerd) edges of the first seam. Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  french seam: press, fold, stitch 9. Press your french seam (yesss! You did it!) toward one side and topstitch (optional) to help it laying flat on the inside of your skirt. Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  french seam: last step 8. Close elastic band in a ring (double-check you’re not twisting it!), overlapping its ends by a scant inch.

Stitch across to secure (go back and forth a few times with a zig-zag stitch… just to be sure it’s not coming apart in no time). Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  close the elastic in a ring 9. Slip the elastic ring around the waistband wrong side;  sandwich the elastic inside the waistband and pin it along the top crease of the waistband (to keep it out-of-the-way while sewing the last seam).

Stitch in the ditch of the waistband, placing the two seams (the ones you pressed toward the waistband on Step 5) one on top of the other; leave the elastic free to move inside its casing. Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  sandwich the elastic inside the waistband 10. Wear, twirl, take some shoots and post them on Serger Pepper Flickr shared board: can’t wait to see your newly made Couture Lace Skirt!

… can you see the hem facing peeking out? Aren’t they nice?Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  twirl factor: 1000!

Time to relax, laying on the grass, drink some fountain water and make a curtsey…
Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  relax and curtsey

Ok! Ready to spin your Hula-Hoop around the waist!Serger Pepper - Couture Lace Skirt DIY - Guest Post Mabey she Made it  -  twirl your Hula-Hoop

That’s it!

I’d love to hear from you: do you like lace skirts? Are you ready to sew one?

 

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About the Author:

Hi there! I love sewing, creating my own patterns and refashioning pre-loved clothes... If you love the same things, why not be friends? See you on Pinterest http://Pinterest.com/MammaNene

8 Comments

  1. Kelly Dannemann October 16, 2014 at 23:05 - Reply

    That is so cute. Your tutorial is easy to understand and is great. I do not have a daughter, but my sewing friend has a granddaughter, I think I will have to make something like this for her.

    • Mamma Nene October 19, 2014 at 10:50 - Reply

      Oh, Kelly, you’re so nice!
      There’s so much negativity around the web about sewing that it doubles how much I appreciate a cute comment like yours <3
      I can’t wait to see your friend’s granddaughter’s skirt, if you’ll ever decide to sew it.
      Thanks, again, and have a terrific sunday 🙂

  2. cucicucicoo October 17, 2014 at 09:27 - Reply

    So cute! And I just love those shots of your daughter and the hula hoop! 🙂 Lisa

    • Mamma Nene October 19, 2014 at 10:51 - Reply

      Thanks Lisa!
      I think that choosing the right props is what really makes the photo shoot!
      I love the fountain one too… it has something delicate in it…

  3. joycandrian October 17, 2014 at 17:59 - Reply

    Such a darling skirt Irene!

    • Mamma Nene October 19, 2014 at 10:53 - Reply

      Thanks Joy!
      I usually create practical clothes but, sometimes, you simply need something with frills and bells 🙂

  4. Chris McGinley October 20, 2014 at 13:02 - Reply

    I don’t have any girls at home anymore but am thinking I need one of these……very nice with black boots and a black top

    • Mamma Nene October 20, 2014 at 17:53 - Reply

      hi Chris!
      I think you should do it for you, it’s a great style for any age, in my book!
      Thanks for liking my project <3

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