FREE Pattern and tutorial: The Eriqua Dress

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SergerPepper Eriqua Dress FREE sewing pattern

Some time ago I shared with you The Mod Dress free pattern: it was the dress I designed and sewn for me for my friend’s wedding. Today I’m sharing my daughter’s dress for this occasion, one more FREE pattern: a pinafore sized 5 years old, born from a Zara dress you’ve seen several times, if you’re Pinterest addicted at least half of me, this one:

Qualche tempo fa ho condiviso il cartamodello gratuito del Mod Dress: era il vestito che ho disegnato e cucito per me, per il matrimonio di un’amica. Oggi proporrò il cartamodello vestito di mia figlia per questa occasione, un altro modello GRATIS: uno scamiciato taglia 5 anni, nato dalla foto di un vestitino di Zara, vestito che avrai visto un sacco di volte, se sei Pinterest-dipendente almeno la metà di me, questo:

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

I’m not sure where it comes from, I’ve linked it to Zara’s site because it’s here that Pins and Google search for Images points…

It’s a really simple pinafore, fully lined, with an invisible zipper on back (check here how to shorten a zipper and how to apply it with a standard zipper foot). The stunning detail are those inverted pleats, with embroidered bar tacks in contrasting thread (I made it in violet, because wedding Dress Code was Violet!).

Non so con precisione da dove venga, lo associo a Zara , perché è qui che le Pins e la ricerca per immagini di Google rimandano…

E’ uno scamiciato molto semplice, interamente foderato, con una cerniera invisibile sul retro (leggi qui Come accorciare una cerniera e come applicarla con un piedino per cerniere standard). Il dettaglio stupendo sono quegli sfondi piega, con barrette di filo a contrasto (io ho scelto il viola, perché il Dress Code del matrimonio in questione era il viola!) .


italian version
It’s a size 5 but I can say it should be ok for any girl aged 4-6 years.

I decided to call this FREE pattern Eriqua Dress in honor of my friend, the Wife of the wedding!

Would you like to have this FREE pattern?

I’m sharing this pattern with all my subscriber by email, so if you’d like to receive your PDF copy of this FREE pattern, please subscribe by entering your name and email in the box at the  beginning of this post!

And now, the tutorial!

What you need:

– fabric (mine is light wool)

– lining

– invisible zipper

– contrasting thread

– the FREE pattern size 5yo (follow me by email and I’ll send it to you)

See the pattern layout here: SergerPepper – The Eriqua Dress – size 5y0 ALL

How to create this dress

First of all, let’s create inverted pleats; if you have no idea about how to do that, try reading this Craftsy tutorial, is perfect!

I started marking pleats lines of folding basting with a long stitch, because my Frixion (-> affiliate link <-) Pen would not be visible after the firs turn of pressing…

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern-basting

I usually try not to baste, but this time you’ll achieve a much more better result doing it: so baste the inverted pleats and press well (I left my front piece below three heavy books all night long, just to be sure pleats were creating and lasting well!).

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern-pin-pleats

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern all pinned

After basting, you can mark bar tacks (keep them evenly distributed and perfectly aligned – use your Frixion (-> affiliate link <-) pen for a perfect result) – no photos here, I completely forgot this one, sorry!

Now sew bar tacks  using the widest but shortest zig-zag you have.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern bar tacks

Tip: try several settings on scraps before deciding which is your favorite, then sew on your dress!

Be happy, the hardest part is done!

Let’s put together this simple lined dress! I’m doing this in a nice way, which does not involve any hand stitching (lazy girl!) and it’s the same I used on my Lined Foldable Market Bag.

First of all, apply your invisible zipper on back (here you can find my tips on shortening zippers and applying it without a specific foot).

Then sew lining front pieces, gathering between marks the skirt piece and stitching it to the top piece. Press the seam allowances toward the top.

SergerPepper Eriqua Dress FREE sewing pattern lining

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern lining complete

Sew then shoulders together on both main fabric and lining (separately!).

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern sew shoulders

Press seam allowances opened, using your tailor’s ham!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern press seams

Now put lining and main fabrics together along the neckline, Right Sides Facing, and pin (I like to baste here too, just to have a nice and perfect neckline).

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern neckline

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern neckline sewn

Sew all around, clip curves and press seam allowances toward the lining, understitching.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern understitching

Tip: pay attention to the zipper upper endings, you need to be really accurate to obtain right and left sides equal!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern  zipper lining

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern neckline sewn

Here’s the tricky part: lay flat Wrong Side Facing the dress and start rolling one side toward the other, until you reach the opposite armhole.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern lining armholes

Pin along marked seamlines, from side seam to side seam:

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern pin

Now sew and clip seam allowances on curves. Turn inside out and give a good press and be careful to keep the lining inside and not showing outside!
Repeat on the other side:

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern armhole lined

Now you can sew the lining along the zipper (by machine), putting RSF and sewing on seam allowances and zipper tape only.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern zipper

I forgot to take some more photos here, sorry, I’ll try to remember when I’ll sew next lined dress with zipper!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern back

 

Sew together along back center seam the rest of the lining below the zipper.

Now into the side seams: match front and back side seams in lining and in main fabric and sew them all in once, starting from main fabric hemline, matching the underarms where lining meet main fabric and ending on lining hem (make it twice, one for left, one for right side seam!)

Last (but not least) let’s hem!  This is where your handstitch comes… in hand! Being a dress “not that sporty”, I like to add a blind hem on main fabric, then a second blind hem for the lining too!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern hem

Tip: remember to let the dress on a hanger for a day or more before hemming, so the fabric can “relax” and the hem will lay flat!

Now sit down with a cup of coffee, relax, and enjoy your little one jumping on her bed wearing her Eriqua dress, some ruffled leggings (pattern and tutorial coming soon) and dark HelloKitty-ed sunglasses!
I hope you liked my Eriqua Dress, if you sew one or more, please share some photos on Serger Pepper’s shared Flickr board 

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern jumping

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern music

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern little dancer

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern love this dress

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

 

 

 

italian version
E’ una taglia 5 anni, ma certamente è adatto a bimbe di età compresa tra 4 e 6 anni.

SergerPepper – The Eriqua Dress – size 5y0 ALL

Ho deciso di chiamarlo Eriqua Dress in onore della mia amica, la Moglie del matrimonio in questione!

Ti piacerebbe avere questo cartamodello GRATIS?

Lo invio a tutti i miei follower via email, quindi se anche tu vorresti averlo ti basta inserire la tua email nel box all’inizio di questo post.

E ora, il tutorial!

Cosa ti serve :

– Tessuto (il mio è di lana leggera)

– Fodera

– Chiusura lampo invisibile

– Filo in contrasto

– Il cartamodello taglia 5 anni (seguimi via email e te lo manderò al più presto!)

Come creare questo abito

Prima di tutto, occorre creare le pieghe invertite (o sfondo piega, io le chiamavo i cannoncini!), se non hai idea di come procedere, dai un’occhiata a questo tutorial su Craftsy, è perfetto!

Ho iniziato segnando le linee di piega con delle filze di imbastitura eseguite  con un punto lungo, perché la mia penna Frixion (-> affiliate link <-) non sarebbe più stata visibile dopo aver iniziato a stirare le pieghe…

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Io di solito cerco di imbastire il meno possibile, ma questa volta credo fosse indispensabile per ottenere un risultato più preciso: quindi ho imbastito le pieghe e le ho stirate per bene (ho lasciato il mio pezzo anteriore imbastito sotto a tre libri pesanti per tutta la notte, tanto per essere sicura che le pieghe fossero ben fissate!).

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Dopo l’imbastitura, passo a marcare le barrette di filo (cercando di distribuirle ed allinearle uniformemente – e qui conviene utilizzare la penna Frixion(-> affiliate link <-) per un risultato perfetto ) – Nessuna foto qui, ero troppo concentrata per ricordarmi di scattare qualche foto, mi spiace!

Ora cuciamo le barrette in filo a contrasto a macchina, usando il punto zig-zag più largo ma più corto possibile.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Suggerimento: prova diverse impostazioni su scarti di stoffa prima di decidere qual è il tuo preferito, poi passa a cucire il vestito!

Ora puoi rallegrarti con te stessa, la parte più difficile è fatta !

Assembliamo questo semplice abito foderato! Lo faremo in un modo originale, che non comporta alcuna cucitura a mano (ragazza pigra!) ed è lo stesso che ho usato sulla mia Borsa Della Spesa foderata e Ripiegabile.

Prima di tutto, applica la cerniera invisibile sul retro (qui puoi trovare i miei consigli su come accorciare le cerniere e come applicarle usando un piedino per cerniere standard).
Ora unisci i pezzi del davanti della fodera, arricciando la parte della gonna tra i segni e unendola al pezzo superiore. Stira i margini di cucitura verso l’alto.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Cucire poi le spalle del tessuto principale e della fodera (separatamente!).

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern
Stira i margini di cucitura aperti, usando il tuo tailor’s ham!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Ora unisci la fodera e il tessuto principale lungo lo scollo, diritto contro diritto, poi fissa con gli spilli (a me piace imbastire anche qui, tanto per avere una bella e perfetta scollatura ).

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Cucire tutto intorno, incidere nelle curve e stirare i margini di cucitura verso la fodera, poi impunturare lato fodera parallelamente alla cucitura dello scollo, comprendendo i margini di cucitura.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Suggerimento: occorre prestare attenzione alle estremità superiori della cerniera, è necessario essere davvero precisi per ottenere i lati destro e sinistro uguali!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Ecco la parte un po’ più complessa: rovescio contro rovescio, rotolare su sè stesso l’abito fino a raggiungere il giro manica opposto.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Spillare lungo la linea di cucitura, da cucitura laterale a cucitura laterale:

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Ora cucire e incidere i margini di cucitura sulle curve. Rivoltare e dare una buona stirata, facendo attenzione a mantenere la fodera all’interno e a non farla scivolare e mostrare fuori!
Ripetere sul lato opposto:

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Ora cuci la fodera lungo la cerniera (a macchina), mettendo diritto contro diritto e cucendo solo su margini di cucitura e nastro cerniera.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Avrei dovuto scattare qualche foto in più qui, mi dispiace, cercherò di ricordarmene quando cuciro il prossimo abito foderato con zip!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Cucire insieme lungo indietro cucitura centrale il resto del rivestimento sotto la cerniera.

Ora le cuciture laterali: abbiniamo lungo le cuciture laterali i davanti ai dietro, sia nella stoffa che nella fodera e cuciamo in una sola volta, a partire dall’orlo del tessuto principale orlo, controllando che le cuciture sotoo alle ascelle siano ben allineate e finendo sull’orlo della fodera (con una cucitura per il lato destro e un’altra cucitura per quello sinistro!)

Ultimo (ma non per importanza):l’orlo! Ecco dove sarà utile un po’ di cuito a mano!  Essendo un abito “non troppo sportivo”, mi piace l’idea di aggiungere un orlo invisibile sul tessuto principale, poi un secondo orlo invisibile per la fodera!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Suggerimento: ricordati di lasciare l’abito appeso su un attaccapanni per almeno un giorno prima di orlarlo, in modo che il tessuto possa “rilassarsi” e l’orlo cadrà bene!

Ora siediti, con una tazza di caffè in mano, rilassati, e goditi la tua piccinache salta sul letto indossando il suo abito Eriqua, i suoi leggings con le ruffles (cartamodello e tutorial in arrivo) e occhiali da sole neri di Hello Kitty!
Spero che ti sia piaciuto il mio abito Eriqua, se ne cuci uno o più, ti prego di condividere qualche foto sulla bachecha di gruppo di Serger Pepper su Flickr!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern

About the Author:

Hi there! I love sewing, creating my own patterns and refashioning pre-loved clothes... If you love the same things, why not be friends? See you on Pinterest http://Pinterest.com/MammaNene

49 Comments

  1. Amy Mayenmayendesigns October 21, 2013 at 03:12 - Reply

    This dress is a little work of art! I’ve shared it everywhere! Hugs!

    • Mamma Nene October 21, 2013 at 12:57 - Reply

      Thank you Amy, I’m so happy you like it… and I hope you’ll end sewing one!
      Thanks for the sharing, it means a lot for me <3

  2. […] MammaNene from Serger Pepper shares a free pattern for making her Eriqua Dress.  It’s a little girl’s sleeveless A-line dress with inverted pleats across the bodice.  Contrast bar tacks accent the pleated bodice.  The pattern will make a little girl’s size 5 dress.  If you need another size, you can make your own by altering a favorite sleeveless A-line dress pattern, using her free pattern as a guide for adding the pleats.  Go to Serger Pepper for the free pattern. […]

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  3. Sharon October 22, 2013 at 20:03 - Reply

    That dress is so adorable! I wish my youngest child was a little bit younger so that I can make stuff for her. Mostly, when taking out my machine, I’m taking clothes in that are too large. Now, my kids are at that age (preteen & teen) where I can’t seem to figure out which items of clothing they like and wouldn’t dare try making. Of course, I know they must like mines since something is always missing from my closet.

  4. Pam @Threading My Way October 23, 2013 at 10:12 - Reply

    Love the simplicity of this dress combined with the pleats and the stitching is the icing on the cake… beautiful, Irene!!!

  5. Melissa October 23, 2013 at 15:54 - Reply

    So cute – love the contrast stitching. Pinned!

    • Mamma Nene October 23, 2013 at 20:53 - Reply

      Great, thank you Melissa 🙂
      It’s such an honor being pinned from you!!!

  6. cucicucicoo October 24, 2013 at 11:17 - Reply

    It’s beautiful, Irene! Great job! Out of curiosity, what software did you use to make the pattern file? Even that is beautiful! 🙂 Lisa

  7. Jenya October 24, 2013 at 11:57 - Reply

    Oh boy! Cuteness alert! I LOVE this dress!

  8. […] was sewing a new dress for LilPotato (PDF pattern to download for FREE !) while I needed to shorten a zipper… I bet most of my readers can do that but I’m sure […]

  9. […] As usual, I try to adapt my sewing projects to my necessities (and not vice versa), so it rarely happen that I sew something that I don’t truly need!  One other goal I achieved with this dress is to release my very first pattern and tutorial for a woman dress: it’s my first time working in a big PDF pattern, so I hope you’ll understand if something isn’t perfect: I’m planning to release some more FREE pattern soon, so any kind of feedback (again, please be patient!) will be more then appreciated! UPDATE: check my daughter’s Eriqua dress FREE pattern here! […]

  10. […] Dress Tutorial at Serger Pepper Blog […]

  11. Abby October 31, 2013 at 15:18 - Reply

    This is such a cute dress, and your little model is adorable!

  12. […] of you asked about the ruffled leggings LilPotato was wearing under the Eriqua dress (FREE pattern delivered to all newsletter subscriber’s email): there they are! You can […]

  13. anastasia November 10, 2013 at 12:26 - Reply

    So sweet dress,dear!!!Very nice tutorial!Well done!
    big hugs

  14. Annie November 14, 2013 at 22:19 - Reply

    Beautiful pleats work! Your model is so cute too!

  15. […] (hint: it’s a girl!), and it will be one more time for subscribers only (like I did for the Eriqua dress, that you can still download if you’re a subscriber)! Do not miss this opportunity, fill now […]

  16. […] related… you won’t miss any new tip, plus there’s a FREE pattern to download (my Eriqua Dress) and more are coming really […]

  17. […] Create the inverted box pleats and pin in place (eventually you can also baste in place by hand, like I did on The Eriqua Dress). […]

  18. […] Before going on with the tutorial… Would you like to sign up for SergerPepper’s weekly mail? There are two exclusive patterns: The Mary Skirt and The Eriqua Dress… […]

  19. […] that the better way to stay in touch and receive two exclusive and FREE patterns (The Eriqua Dress and The Mary Skirt), is to sign up for our Weekly […]

  20. […] do it with our Monday’s Newsletter you can have two (and counting) Exclusive FREE patterns: The Erika Dress and The Mary […]

  21. […] this box, I have two sewing patterns I share exclusively with my monday’s newsletter readers (The Eriqua Dress and The Mary Skirt) PLUS: you could suggest me what draw next… maybe a woman pattern? Let me […]

  22. Made with hugs and kisses January 19, 2014 at 01:47 - Reply

    Hi, I am in the midst of setting up a crafting community blog where I will be sharing tutorials that will help people learn to sew and craft. Would you mind if I featured this dress? All this would mean is I post about it sharing an image and a link back to your original post for readers to click through to. Thanks
    Hannah smith

    • Mamma Nene January 19, 2014 at 08:40 - Reply

      Obviously yes, Hannah, thank you!
      I think sometimes fate is strange… I answered to your contributors request 5 minutes ago (I read your newsletter and decided I had to try my chance!!)
      Good luck with your new blog, can’t wait to see it 🙂

  23. […] signing up to our Monday’s newsletter and you’ll receive two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary […]

  24. […] signing up to our Monday’s newsletter and you’ll receive two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary […]

  25. […] one I wore with my Mod Dress (FREE pattern available for download), matching to my daughter’s Eriqua Dress (one more FREE pattern) and her Self-Drafted Ruffled Leggings I shared last […]

  26. […] signing up to our Monday’s newsletter, where you’ll find two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary […]

  27. […] signing up to our Monday’s newsletter and you’ll receive two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary Skirt (PS: a third one is coming […]

  28. […] signing up to our Monday’s newsletter and you’ll receive two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary […]

  29. […] signing up to our Monday’s newsletter and you’ll receive two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary […]

  30. […] signing up to our Monday’s newsletter and you’ll receive two exclusive FREE patterns: The Eriqua Dress and The Mary […]

  31. Emily Thompson April 12, 2014 at 04:08 - Reply

    just gorgeous!! I want to make it with a light summer fabric and see how it works ;o) I just want wanted to let you know that I’ve put together a post called 20+ free sewing patterns for kids and this is part of it!! I’ve spread the word all around and I hope you will see some extra visits ;o) Emily http://nap-timecreations.com/2014/04/20-free-sewing-patterns-for-kids.html

    • Mamma Nene April 13, 2014 at 00:07 - Reply

      Thanks Emily, it’s one of my favorite too 🙂
      Don’t forget to add some photos to Serger Pepper’s Flickr group board, if you’ll sew it, I’ll be more thn happy to see them 🙂

  32. […] Here are the ruffled leggings LilPotato was wearing under the Eriqua dress […]

  33. Cidys Marquez August 8, 2014 at 18:05 - Reply

    Hola, hace poco tiempo me suscribí a tu Blog. me gustaría obtener este patrón Gratis. la verdad me encanta, y en el tutorial lo explicas muy bien, me quiero animar a hacerlo. Gracias

  34. Laura Svaluto February 3, 2015 at 14:33 - Reply

    Bello! Sembra semplice ma d’effetto 🙂

  35. Inês February 27, 2015 at 16:25 - Reply

    Hi!
    just arrived!
    i’m from Portugal and i was looking for a pattern for winter dress to give to a little girl when i found your blog and this lovely tutorial.
    sooo preety !
    do you think i could do it with some princes sleeves?
    thank you so much

  36. Deedra October 26, 2015 at 03:22 - Reply

    Gorgeous little designer dresses – and it’s the love that counts! Yours spreads as an inspiration to others, so that they can experience the joy of creating beautiful things. If only these skills were taught to all young people these – there would be far fewer on antidepressants! You are a clever lady!

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