SergerPepper Eriqua Dress FREE sewing pattern

Some time ago I shared with you The Mod Dress free pattern: it was the dress I designed and sewn for me for my friend’s wedding. Today I’m sharing my daughter’s dress for this occasion, one more FREE pattern: a pinafore sized 5 years old, born from a Zara dress you’ve seen several times, if you’re Pinterest addicted at least half of me, this one:


I’m not sure where it comes from, I’ve linked it to Zara’s site because it’s here that Pins and Google search for Images points…

It’s a really simple pinafore, fully lined, with an invisible zipper on the back (check here how to shorten a zipper and how to apply it with a standard zipper foot).

The stunning detail are those inverted pleats, with embroidered bar tacks in contrasting thread (I made it in violet, because wedding Dress Code was Violet!).

It’s a size 5 but I can say it should be ok for any girl aged 4-6 years.

I decided to call this FREE pattern Eriqua Dress in honor of my friend, the Wife of the wedding!

Would you like to have this FREE pattern?

I’m sharing this pattern with all my subscriber by email, so if you’d like to receive your PDF copy of this FREE pattern, please subscribe by entering your name and email in the box at the beginning of this post!

And now, the tutorial!

What you need:

– fabric (mine is light wool)

– lining

– invisible zipper

– contrasting thread

– the FREE pattern size 5yo (follow me by email and I’ll send it to you)

See the pattern layout here: SergerPepper – The Eriqua Dress – size 5y0 ALL

How to create this dress

First of all, let’s create inverted pleats; if you have no idea about how to do that, try reading this Craftsy tutorial, is perfect!

I started marking pleats lines of folding basting with a long stitch because my Frixion Pen would not be visible after the first turn of pressing…


I usually try not to baste, but this time you’ll achieve a much more better result doing it: so baste the inverted pleats and press well (I left my front piece below three heavy books all night long, just to be sure pleats were creating and lasting well!).


Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern all pinned

After basting, you can mark bar tacks (keep them evenly distributed and perfectly aligned – use your Frixion Pen for a perfect result).

Now sew bar tacks using the widest but shortest zig-zag you have.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern bar tacks

Tip: try several settings on scraps before deciding which is your favorite, then sew on your dress!

Be happy, the hardest part is done!

Let’s put together this simple lined dress! I’m doing this in a nice way, which does not involve any hand stitching (lazy girl!) and it’s the same I used on my Lined Foldable Market Bag.

First of all, apply your invisible zipper on back (here you can find my tips on shortening zippers and applying it without a specific foot).

Then sew lining front pieces, gathering between marks the skirt piece and stitching it to the top piece. Press the seam allowances toward the top.

SergerPepper Eriqua Dress FREE sewing pattern lining

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern lining complete

Sew then shoulders together on both main fabric and lining (separately!).

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern sew shoulders

Press seam allowances opened, using your tailor’s ham or, even better, your point presser/tailor’s clapper.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern press seams

Now put lining and main fabrics together along the neckline, right sides together (RST), and pin (I like to baste here too, just to have a nice and perfect neckline).

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern neckline

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern neckline sewn

Sew all around, clip curves and press seam allowances toward the lining, understitching.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern understitching

Tip: pay attention to the zipper upper endings, you need to be really accurate to obtain right and left sides equal!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern zipper lining

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern neckline sewn

Here’s the tricky part: lay flat (wrong sides together) the dress and start rolling one side toward the other, until you reach the opposite armhole.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern lining armholes

Pin along marked seamlines, from side seam to side seam:

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern pin

Now sew and clip seam allowances on curves. Turn inside out and give a good press and be careful to keep the lining inside and not showing outside!
Repeat on the other side:

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern armhole lined

Now you can sew the lining along the zipper (by machine), putting RST and sewing on seam allowances and zipper tape only.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern zipper

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern back


Sew together along the center back seam the rest of the lining below the zipper.

Now into the side seams: match front and back side seams in the lining and in the main fabric and sew them all in once, starting from main fabric hemline, matching the underarms where lining meet main fabric and ending on lining hem (make it twice, one for left, one for right side seam!)

Last (but not least) let’s hem!  This is where your handstitch comes… in hand! Being a posh dress, I like to stitch a blind hem by hand on the main fabric, then a second blind hem for the lining too!

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern hem

Tip: remember to let the dress on a hanger for a day or more before hemming, so the fabric can “relax” and the hem will lay flat!

Now sit down with a cup of coffee, relax, and enjoy your little one jumping on her bed wearing her Eriqua dress, some ruffled leggings (pattern and tutorial coming soon) and dark HelloKitty-ed sunglasses!
I hope you liked my Eriqua Dress, if you sew one or more, please share some photos on the Serger Pepper Patterns FB group.

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern jumping

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern music

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern little dancer

Serger-Pepper-Eriqua-Dress-sewing-free-pattern love this dress